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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.